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Outstanding Art Deco Diamond and Sapphire Ring

Outstanding Art Deco Diamond and Sapphire Ring

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This absolutely outstanding late Edwardian/Art Deco ring is a true treasure. Combining character-filled old cut diamonds with sleek precision cut sapphires, geometric faces with romantic milgrain and engraving, a modern east-west design with intricate details from all angles - this ring is an exercise in maximalism done right. A central old Euro diamond - with beautiful, floral faceting characteristic of the later stages of the cut - is flanked on four sides by diagonal baguette-like sapphires in the French cut favoured at the time. Synthetic sapphires were still brand new to the market and the Deco era was known for its technophilia: far from the less-than reputation synthetics often have nowadays, the lab created stones were highly coveted and broadly used in Art Deco designs. Creating a checkerboard effect with three-across in the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions are eight more old Euros of varying ages and cuts - some have the early shape with big, blocky culets while others come closer to the petal-like cut of the centre stone - and the overall effect is brilliant, sparkly, and yet uniquely quirky. Each bead setting is given its own geometric frame and lined with precise milgrain. If you can bear to pull your eyes off the face of this ring, you're rewarded with an intricate filigree-inspired gallery and a gorgeous wheat engraving around the entirety of the band, all still flanked by ever more milgrain. The wheat engraving was a favoured motif in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, representing a wish for prosperity and fertility. This exquisitely crafted ring comes signed UR, for the New York City firm Untermeyer-Robbins, operating c.1901-1950.

Very good antique condition, all stones are secure in their settings and band is thick and sturdy. One synthetic sapphire has been replaced by a natural sapphire, which is slightly darker in colour. Very minor evidence of past resizing resizing resulting in a very subtle break in the engraved pattern.

• Platinum, stamped and tested, trademarked UR for Untermeyer-Robbins
• Size 7 and do not recommend sizing the band (though inserts can be added to size down)
• Nine old European cut diamonds approximately 0.40 carats total weight; three rectangular French cut synthetic sapphires; one rectangular French cut natural sapphire
• Face of ring measures 9.8mm wide, 14.4mm across, with a rise of 4.6mm; back of band measures 1.3mm wide and 1mm thick
• 3.3g
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